The gist of my days for the last several weeks:
wake up around first light
bicycle down to the beach to check the surf
rush back to the house, wake up M. and get my gear together
rush to get ready for work, usually in about 20 minutes
surf until dark
Weekends have seen visitors at the house, us visiting others, projects - but mostly surfing. I've left little time for anything else. Not food shopping, not cleaning the house, not doing laundry, not editing promised photos, not e-mailing, not tending to my general responsibilities. Who knows when the waves will be gone?
I can do all that other stuff when it's flat.
I'm not complaining - it just makes me tired in the best possible way, lazy and out of touch. Now if I could just dispense with the commuting/working part, life would be perfect and I'd have a whole lot more time to get my chores done between surf sessions.